Installation moves fast and feels straightforward thanks to the Uniclic® profile. One click locks the panels firmly: seamless, dry-fit and without any tricky techniques.
Curious how it works in practice? You’ll find everything here.
Finishing inner or outer corners? Integrating doors or windows? Unilin corner profiles and skirtings give you the clean, professional finish your Clicwall partition deserves.
Keeping your Clicwall panels in top shape? Easy. A soft cloth, luke warm water and a mild detergent do the job.
Sometimes a quick video tells the story best, right?
These one-minute installation videos walk you through each step of assembling your Clicwall wall system.
Yes, you can. Place two panels end to end using one of the following techniques: butt joint with L-profile, finish with aluminium T-profile or an overlap joint. You will find detailed instructions for all steps in the Clicwall installation guide.
Yes. With a hole saw, you can easily make cut-outs for sockets, switches, pipes and tubes.
Yes, the Clicwall panels themselves have a load capacity of 50 kg per screw using suitable cavity wall plugs such as Fischer PD or HM. For higher loads, you can reinforce locally up to 70 kg per screw with an extra panel. Durelis is the stronger, more durable, cheaper and splinter-free alternative to classic OSB/3 boards. Sanipan is a pre-drilled reinforcement panel for wall-hung toilets. And Qualirack offers local reinforcement for extra load-bearing capacity.
You can make one panel removable by removing the lip from the groove and attaching the panel with magnets. This keeps everything accessible, without visible hatches. The complete procedure can be found in the installation guide.
Yes, as long as there is at least 3-5 cm of space between the panels and the radiator.
A scratch? A dent? It happens in the best interiors. You can touch up small scratches with a colour pen. Larger damage can be repaired with the Clicwall Repair kit. Need more technical information? Download the complete installation guide. Is the damage too extensive to repair? Read below to find out how you can easily replace a panel.
Removing a damaged panel is only possible if the panels were attached using staples or screws. Saw off the damaged panel and remove the remaining parts from the substructure. Then prepare the new panel (adjust the groove) and click it into place so that the wall fits seamlessly again. Want to know more? Download the complete installation guide.
Clicwall is always mounted on a stable substructure of wooden slats (CLS/SLS) with wood screws or staples, or on metal studs with self-tapping screws. Ensure that it is flat, straight and dry, and place the vertical battens every 600 mm, depending on the type of wall. Fastening is always done in the groove, invisible to the eye. A dotted line in the groove indicates where you can screw or staple. In areas of intensive use, such as corridors or schools, we recommend installing an extra horizontal slat at a height of ± 1 metre for extra strength.
Yes, Clicwall can be installed directly onto plasterboard. Clicwall cannot be screwed directly onto walls with tiles or plaster. Instead, you should mount the panels onto a stable substructure (metal studs or wooden slats), which you attach to the existing wall. This must be fully levelled to ensure a flat substructure.
For optimal acoustic and thermal performance, it is best to use mineral wool (such as glass wool or rock wool). You can find this insulation at most DIY stores or building material suppliers. Place the insulation tightly between the wooden or metal studs, without any air gaps. This will prevent sound leaks and heat loss. You can configure more technical details and construction examples in the Clicwall system selector.